Nikko - An historical city

After a long period of inactivity, I’m sharing my weekend in the Tochigi region, and more specifically in Nikko. It’s one of the most well-known destinations close to Tokyo, especially for its historical monuments. Among them is the burial site of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the man who unified Japan and opened the Edo period (1603-1868). In winter, Nikko, being located to the north of Tokyo, often experiences snow. After three hours of train ride from Asakusa station, I arrived at Nikko station. One of the drawbacks of this city is that after 8 PM, it becomes completely inactive. Since there were no more buses, I had to walk to my hotel.

During this stay, I stayed in a traditional Japanese room and slept for the first time on a futon. Early in the morning, I got up at 6 AM to explore the city. As I expected, I was the only one awake at that hour. Since the temples open between 8 AM and 9 AM, I took this moment to stroll around these beautiful sites while waiting for their opening. I was lucky enough to witness a stunning sunrise.

I started by visiting the Rinnō-ji Taiyūin, the mausoleum of the third shogun, Iemitsu (grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu). It was a very special moment as I was able to explore this temple almost alone. I then headed towards the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu. Unfortunately, although the shrine is magnificent, it was overcrowded, which somewhat ruined the immersion. I took the opportunity to buy my first goshuinchō, a sacred notebook used to collect official seals from temples and shrines. I plan to write an article dedicated to the different goshuin I’ve obtained. To conclude this morning, I visited the Rinnō-ji. Personally, I don’t think this temple is worth the entrance fee. However, there are passes that allow access to multiple temples at a reduced price.

Once the morning was over, I headed to the village of Yunishigawa Onsen. Although this village is somewhat isolated, it hosts the Kamakura Festival at the beginning of the year. Hundreds of ‘kamakura,’ or ‘snow huts,’ are made there. The locals place small candles inside them, which light them up at nightfall.

The next day, I headed to Lake Chūzenji, very close to Nikko. Quite well-known, it houses several waterfalls visible from different viewpoints. After taking some photos, I moved further away from Nikko. Without knowing exactly where I was going, I ended up at Yumoto Onsen.

Even though the village is not very touristy, I encountered many Japanese people, as there is a small ski area there. The town has many onsens, some of which are public and others private. By chance, some hotels open their onsens to the public for part of the day. I went to the Kyukamura Nikko-Yumoto hotel (photo from the internet), where I was able to enjoy my first onsen in the snow for an hour and a half. I finished my day with a bowl of noodles.

For my last day, I had no plans. However, this day turned out to be full of surprises. From one of the viewpoints in the area, I got a panoramic view of Lake Chūzenji. Despite the cold, the view was amazing.

Before returning to Tokyo, I visited the Imperial Villa. Much less known to Chinese tourists, I found it hardly mentioned in the travel guides; yet, it remains one of my best discoveries. Built in 1899, it combines the architecture of the Edo period and the modernism of the Meiji era, and has more than 106 rooms. Some emperors even stayed there temporarily.

After the visit, I headed back to Tokyo.

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